Kidneys with Artichokes, Lemon, Thyme and White Wine

This is an adaptation from a recipe I discovered many years ago in the River Café Cookery Book. I've long since lost the book and the recipe has adapted over the years but it still remains one of our favourite recipes of all time.

Kidneys, and offal in general, is a really economical and seriously under-rated. People think nothing of tucking into delicious pates and terrines and yet still shy away from using the raw ingredients in different ways.

Traditionally, whenever I thought of kidneys my mind switched immediately to Steak and Kidney pudding, which of course is delicious, but this recipe all those years ago, taught me to rethink the way I prepare offal and the ingredients I match with it.

At under £2.00 a packet, these lambs kidneys are a great source of protein and essential vitamins and nutrients. The trick with kidneys is to take the time in prepping them. An activity which you can't afford to be squeamish about.


INGREDIENTS

1 packet of lambs' kidneys
1 unwaxed lemon
3 small cloves of garlic
3 heaped teaspoons of fresh thyme
1/2 - 2 teaspoons of dried chilli flakes
a 1/4 glass of white wine
1 x tin of artichoke hearts

COST approximately £4.00 for 2

STEP ONE:
This is an important step so take your time. Cut the kidneys in half and take out the creamy white core at the centre. I find it easiest to use a pair of sharp scissors. Once cored, cut the kidneys into half again, so you have quarters.

STEP TWO:
Drain the artichoke hearts. Pat dry with kitchen roll and cut in half.

STEP THREE:
In a small bowl add the chilli flakes, grated garlic, grated lemon zest, and fresh time.

STEP FOUR:
Heat a frying pan and add a little olive oil for frying. Add the artichoke hearts until they start to colour a golden brown, add the mixture of seasoning from step three and fry off until the garlic is also golden brown. Be careful not to over cook at this stage or the thyme and garlic may go bitter. Tip the mixture into a bowl and wipe the pan with kitchen roll.

STEP FIVE:
Heat the pan and add the kidneys, frying on a high heat until they begin to brown. Cook for at least 4 minutes for pink and for about 6-8 minutes if you prefer them cooked through. Add the artichokes and shuffle in the pan. Continue to fry through ensuring all the flavours are combined and then add the wine, reducing it down to a small but flavourful sauce.

SERVE with Buttered green beans or a White Bean Mash. (A tin of white butter beans warmed through with a half a clove of garlic and a couple of strands of rosemary. Remove from heat and blitz with hand mixer until a smooth mash like consistency. Add a knob of butter, salt and black pepper)

ADD THE MAGIC
This is a dish that screams provincial peasant Italy, evoking a sense of romance. It's a great dish to eat al fresco, but equally rich and gamey enough for a winter's evening. Bring a bit of Italian sunshine with crisp whites, yellow and greens. A rustic pottery vase filled with sunflowers, and a sprig of rosemary tucked into white napkins will instantly help transport you to the Tuscan hills.

WINE CHOICE
A crisp Italian white such as Orvieto would match really well.